Slouchy street style in rag bone pre-fall pictures


Tonight saw the inauguration of the first of the three new names heading up some of the biggest fashion brands in the world, all showing in Paris. As we arrived in the fourth city of the travelling fashion show carnival, the huge interest in seeing what Anthony Vaccarello would bring to Saint Laurent added a welcome fillip to an audience who have the beginnings of show fatigue after three weeks of activity.

Vaccarello arrives in the role with the unwelcome task of following in the footprints of an undeniably successful creative director. During Hedi Slimane's four-year tenure he pre-fall turned the world of Yves Saint Laurent on its head, shook out all the stuffiness that had collected and put it back on its feet still wearing spindly stilettos, but this time pairing them with a leather mini skirt and a skinny slip dress. And taking it to party with a whole new LA cool, music scene. Last year the company reported a revenue of 973.6 million Euros against 707.3 million Euros the previous year - a much healthier situation than many in its peer group.

Sometimes it's easier to take over a role in a business that is moribund or, like Donald Trump in Monday night's debate with Hillary Clinton, appear with such low expectations of your performance that it would be close to impossible not to rise above them. But that was not to be for Vaccarello.

The first thing he did was to bring back the discarded notion of Rive Gauche by placing the show literally in the heart of the Left Bank in a disused armoury. Vaccarello is known for the thigh-high, body-con school of dressing with the ability to tailor a mean jacket and a way with drape and that was certainly what we saw in the 44 looks that came out, the girls striding under a shiny low black ceiling.

The ceiling was black, the jackets were black, the trousers in every shape were black ( save for a couple of pairs of jeans) and the majority of the tiny, bottom skimming dresses were also black. For those who won't be wearing a dress that is only a fraction longer than their torso, Vaccarello offered a huge number of gorgeous jackets from the classic tuxedo to the biker and a covetable faded tapestry military style. The alternative to jackets were an array of bodices, some with leg o'mutton sleeves others with plunging sweetheart necklines, although there was a section of somewhat baffling one-armed cocktail wear that was not entirely successful and looked very tricksy.

The whole show focused on evening wear and was missing the coats that Slimane brought so youthfully onto the catwalk. Indeed in general this woman was less Portobello street urchin type and more wild Seventies vamp. But she was a vamp with great accessories, from large YSL ear cuffs and long silken tassle earnings, thick gold cuffs, the most delicate high ankle strap sandals with a cyclamen metallic flash at the ankle and some great shining brogues.

In all he most certainly took the view that what wasn't broken didn't need fixing. It was Anthony Vaccarello doing Hedi Slimane's take on Saint Laurent and making a pretty good job of it. Perhaps next season he will add something to make it more his own but for now he will have ensured that the tills will still be ringing in the stores for this cherished Parisian house.

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Источник: http://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/spring-summer-2017-ready-to-wear/saint-laurent



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Slouchy street style in rag bone pre-fall pictures

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Slouchy street style in rag bone pre-fall pictures

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Slouchy street style in rag bone pre-fall pictures

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Slouchy street style in rag bone pre-fall pictures

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Slouchy street style in rag bone pre-fall pictures

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Slouchy street style in rag bone pre-fall pictures

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Slouchy street style in rag bone pre-fall pictures

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Slouchy street style in rag bone pre-fall pictures

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Slouchy street style in rag bone pre-fall pictures

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Slouchy street style in rag bone pre-fall pictures

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Slouchy street style in rag bone pre-fall pictures

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Slouchy street style in rag bone pre-fall pictures

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Slouchy street style in rag bone pre-fall pictures

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Slouchy street style in rag bone pre-fall pictures

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